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Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters
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Librairie Eyrolles - Paris 5e
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Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters

Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters

Leo H. Holthuijsen

448 pages, parution le 15/01/2007

Résumé

Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. The book brings graduate students, researchers and engineers up-to-date with the science and technology involved, assuming only a basic understanding of physics, mathematics and statistics. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterize waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalized observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.

  • Illustrations from the book are featured in color, along with student questions and answers on a web site
  • Includes a detailed description of the wave model SWAN, the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters
  • Appendices briefly review pre-requisite information on mathematics, statistics and physics

Sommaire

  • Introduction
  • Observation techniques
  • Description of ocean waves
  • Statistics
  • Linear wave theory (oceanic waters)
  • Waves in oceanic waters
  • Linear wave theory (coastal waters)
  • Waves in coastal waters
  • The SWAN wave model
  • Appendices
Voir tout
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Caractéristiques techniques

  PAPIER
Éditeur(s) Cambridge University Press
Auteur(s) Leo H. Holthuijsen
Parution 15/01/2007
Nb. de pages 448
Format 18 x 25,5
Couverture Relié
Poids 950g
Intérieur Noir et Blanc
EAN13 9780521860284
ISBN13 978-0-521-86028-4

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